Things to see and do - Graz
Leaving for Austria
"We are not putting Graz on the map: it's been there a long time." So says Peter Cook, one half of a pair of British architects who have designed the most avant garde building to grace Europe's City of Culture for 2003. In fact, their Kunsthaus (art gallery) won't be finished until the end of the year, but no one seems to mind. Already nicknamed 'The Mattress' and 'The Friendly Alien' by locals, the gallery is an astonishing creation, built on the 'wrong side of the tracks', the west side of the River Mur. Like a floating bloated gherkin, the building will act as a visual counter balance to the clock tower that crowns the Schlossberg hill. But Graz has lots more modern architecture to delight and surprise you.
Most guidebooks to Graz are full of paragraphs waxing lyrical about the Italian Renaissance architecture: arcades, courtyards and palaces. But for architects such as Cook, it is Graz's contribution to modern architecture that appeals. "Along with California and Japan, Graz was where it was all happening in the late 20th century. They were coming up with ideas that they would not countenance in Vienna."
So proud of this modernity is the city that it puts out a free pamphlet with a map and walking tour of 'New Graz Architecture'. As I strolled round the old city, I found striking contemporary designs harmoniously coexisting with historic buildings. Take the Bermudadreiecke, the 'Bermuda Triangle', where ancient lanes open onto squares a-bustle with bars and restaurants. Bang in the middle is Richard Ellmer's steel and glass box of a building with the Café M1 on top. A sensation when it opened in 1991, the design is taken for granted nowadays by locals sipping coffee and savouring the panorama over red-tiled rooftops. Also in the heart of the city are the innovative buildings of the Kastner & Öhler department store complex and the super-cool Johan restaurant and bar. Best of all are the toilets at the 17th century Zeughaus, the Armoury Museum. No kidding! Behind the reception desk, Klaus Kada's cubicles have become an attraction in their own right. Well worth spending a penny!
The unmissable design is, paradoxically, the easiest to miss: the Dom in Berg, the caverns hacked out of the rugged pinnacle of rock that dominates the city. I half-expected to see James Bond villain Blofeld plotting world domination in this enormous space; instead, staff were setting up for one of the many events, which range from rock concerts to art exhibitions. From here, the top of the hill, with its historic clock tower, is just a glide away in a glass lift. Once again, new and old, old and new, happily juxtaposed.
Tel: 00 43 316 80750, www.visitgraz.com