Pierre-Brice Lebrun - 2009-12-15

The tip of Tallinn Town Hall’s tallest spire rises above the red-tiled roofs as the Christmas Market, Jouluturg for those in the know, unfolds below on Raekoja (Town Hall Square) with its cheerful, brightly-lit huts, gigantic fir tree and enticing aroma of glöggi (mulled wine). Indeed, every year since 1441 a Christmas tree is culled in a neighbouring forest to honour Christmas and the Nativity on Raekoja.

 

Santa Claus regularly makes the rounds at Jouluturg, accompanied by two Estonian beauties with flaming red hair. Of course, his home at the North Pole is only a fifteen-minute flight by reindeer-powered sleigh - all he has to do is cross the Baltic Sea, fly over Helsinki and head north to arrive in Rovaniemi, where his elves are busily preparing their parcels. To the sound of brass bands, Father Christmas greets the children who watch, wide-eyed, as he loads his sack with all sorts of marvels - you can’t miss him! And here at Jouluturg he has plenty of gifts to choose from: the requisite mittens, scarves and assorted caps; fancy hand-knitted jumpers; embroidered cardigans; reindeer skins; local handicrafts and wooden toys; scented candles; and plenty of tempting treats to eat and drink...

 

Unlike many European markets further south, Christmas markets in the north tend to be authentic and traditional. In winter, there aren’t many tourists in Tallinn; the crowd in

Jouluturg is mainly made up of Estonians who buy their gifts here and then have a meal with friends or family - a delicious sausage or ham hocks and cabbage with soup and ale. Tallinn’s Christmas Market is made for them, but if travellers want to come and discover the city while taking advantage of the festivities, they can expect a warm welcome. During their visit, they’ll also be able to enjoy the excellent restaurants which have taken over the discreet little streets of the Old City.

 

December is an ideal time to discover the charms of the Scandinavian and Baltic capitals: festooned and illuminated, donning their most festive apparel, they celebrate Christmas with great intensity, though their streets and squares can be quite cold and snowy. When the Christmas season is nigh, the shop windows join in the merriment. In the Old Town, there’s a great selection of gifts for young and old at very affordable prices - sensational on Christmas Day, when everyone unwraps their gifts back home! “Where on earth did you find this?” “We got it for you in Tallinn!” “You went to Tallinn? In Estonia? What an adventure! Tell us all about it!”

 

Tallinn is a large city whose medieval centre is protected by an imposing 13C defensive wall with guard towers and crenellated ramparts. Above it sits Toompea Hill, the Upper Town, even lovelier than the centre but much quieter. The European modern city, with its trams and parking lots, shopping malls and department stores, begins on the far side of the Viru Gates. But it’s really the Old Town which is worth visiting, and you can easily spend all your time wandering about discovering it.

 

Perhaps you’ll want to leave your hotel early in the morning and head for Toompea: admiring the roofs of the Lower Town as the day begins below is an endlessly satisfying spectacle. You could stroll around, stop in a few shops and visit a museum - the Kadriorg Art Museum, for example, housed in Peter the Great’s summer palace. The city also boasts twelve magnificent churches where concerts are regularly held, often free of charge.

You can replenish body and soul at the Dominican Monastery cloister - it is said to have magical powers. And of course, frequent hot chocolate stops are highly recommended, accompanied now and again by a little something sweet. The temperature generally hovers around freezing, but rarely dips lower.

 

There is no end of choices for lunch, and the same goes for dinner, providing you spend at least one Russian evening below the Troïka to experience their wild Slavic extravaganza (reservations recommended). One must-try is the AED, a self-styled ‘embassy of pure food’ with a modern decor and ‘ecological’ cuisine. And then there’s Grandma’s Place, which you’ll find thanks to the stove set outside - the only clue leading to this restaurant which serves typical local dishes; its real name, which is nowhere to be seen, is Vanaema Juures. In Kuldse Notsu Körts, young women sporting local dress serve traditional food in a flowered wood decor. Must Lammas, a restaurant offering Caucasian food and drink (try the rustic Georgian wine), points the way to future travels…

 

Estonians fancy cabbage and garden peas, chicken, anchovies and sprats, pork and sauerkraut, blood pudding, beetroot and potatoes which are prepared in countless ways: when it is this cold out, you need your calories! Evening meals generally consist of lighter fare such as canapés or fish, served at around 6 pm.

 

Around 3-4 pm, the sun sets and the sky grows dim - it’s time to end the constitutional walk and go back to your hotel to freshen up before heading out anew.

The Meriton Grand Hotel, ex-palace of the Soviet nomenklatura, is not Tallinn’s finest hotel, but it does have private sauna-jacuzzis you can book for two hours at a stretch: who said that cold weather isn’t romantic?

 

You won’t leave until it’s time for cocktails, preferably at the Stereo Lounge (where you can also have snacks and even dinner).

Tallinn is a city you’ll want to visit on foot, so take advantage of the fact that you needn’t drive home! The local aperitifs are Vana Tallinn (40°), a delicious liqueur flavoured with herbs and spices, and Viru Valge (40°), Estonian vodka which, along with Finnish Koskenkorva (40°), is one of the world’s best, excellent with fish, salmon and prawns.

 

 

 

Tel: (372) 645 7777

 

The Tallinn Card lets you use public transport and visit 40 museums and other tourist attractions, plus gives discounts and a free guided tour of the city.

 

A three- to four-night weekend trip for two costs around € 1,250/£1,135:  €400/£ 365 per person round-trip on major airlines plus your hotel and breakfast.

 

 

27, Toompuiestee

Tel: (372) 667 7000

€ 60-200/£ 54-181. Sauna and private jacuzzi, € 40/£ 36 for 2 hours.

 

49, Lai

Tel: (372) 614 1300

€ 80-200/ £ 72-181.

 

13, Pühavaimu

Tel: (372) 699 7700

€ 215-235/£ 194-212 for a double room, breakfast included.

 

7, Rataskaevu

Tel: (372) 628 6500

€ 130-150/£ 118-136 for a double room, breakfast included.

 

23, Toompuiestee

Tel: (372) 660 0700

€ 50-80/£ 45-72 per room with a hearty breakfast buffet and free WIFI; airport shuttles available and recommended (three hotels in the city).

 

 

8, Rataskaevu

Tel: (372) 626 90 88

500 EEK/person*

 

10, Rataskaevu

Tel: (372) 626 9080

400 EEK/person

 

Restoran Gloria (fine dining)

2, Müürivahe

One of the oldest, best and most expensive restaurants in the city, with an alluring wine cellar.

 

8, Dunkri

Tel: (372) 628 6567

Under the Hotel St. Petersbourg, 400 EEK/person

 

Must Lammas (Caucasian restaurant)

2, Sauna

Tel: (372) 644 2031

400 EEK/person

 

Troïka (Russian tavern and restaurant)

15, Raekojaplats

Tel: (372) 627 6245

400 EEK/person, including the live music but not the vodka - and what vodka it is!

 

14, Vene

Tel: (352) 644 6887 (bar), 641 8374 (restaurant)

300 EEK/personne

 

 

6, Harju

Aperitifs and more.

 

1, passage Saiakang

There are six Kehrwieder establishments in Tallinn.

 

6, Vene (dans la Cour des Maîtres)

An absolute must!

 

45, Pikk

Snacks served in a friendly atmosphere with a student clientele.

 

6, Mere

The place to sample Vana Tallinn, the national aperitif (in New Town).