In Paraty's Centro histórico the electric cables barely detract from the combined charm of the tiled-roof houses and white-washed churches. In places the high tide floods the cobblestones, which residents claim gives them a good clean. After night falls, a constant stream of tourists comes ambling through the lively streets, stopping at stalls selling pasteis. In the morning, as the sun beats down, the city slowly recovers from the excesses of the night before.