Open your eyes and nostrils. You are in the cerrado of the centre-west of Brazil, a nature park unique in the world, which grows plant species that you won't see anywhere else, whatever your globetrotting credentials. A savannah with two faces, whose climate veers from arid to tropical depending on the season, and where rivers, canyons and waterfalls make idyllic spots for bathing. An Eden, protected by the Chapada dos Veadeiros National Park, but threatened by intensive agriculture… To be explored only with a guide.