Georges Rouzeau - 2009-12-08

The harmonious and preserved nature of the city and its wide variety of architecture are straightaway attractive to visitors.  An Orthodox cathedral lies alongside a Stalinian style palace, a Catholic church is next to a mosque, a Secession facade faces the chimney of a Socialist factory. Modern buildings springing up here and there blend in harmoniously on the whole. The capital of the country only since 1879, Sofia bears the marks of Bulgaria's tormented history. The remains of the Thracian and Roman civilisations, the still bitter memories (at least in the national conscience) of the Ottoman occupation, the help from the 'big' Russian brother to free themselves from the Turks, then the Soviet oppression, that in a nutshell forms the historic setting of Bulgaria and of Sofia in particular. 

The city centre can be discovered on foot, and why not at night (Sofia is a safe city) as most monuments are splendidly floodlit. Sofia has a multitude of stalls where you can snack and have a drink until the small hours of the morning. Its Oriental and Byzantine charm is irresistible... 

 

Unknown territory for many of us, Bulgaria occupies the centre of the well-known Balkan peninsula with, as its neighbours, Romania (to the north), Greece and Turkey (to the south and south-east), Serbia and the Republic of Macedonia (to the west). To the east, Bulgaria is bordered by the Black Sea. 

 

Reflecting the three monotheistic religions, Sofia's religious heritage dominates the scene. Saint-Alexander-Nevski Cathedral, the emblem of Sofia reproduced on all postcards, is simply spectacular. Colossal, above all when its golden domes shine in the sun, this Neo-Byzantine church built at the end of the 19^th century, is amazing on account of its intimate interior.  Yet, a congregation of 5,000 can reportedly attend the religious service here.

The crypt houses a marvellous collection of icons (from the 12^th to the 19^th century) not to be missed on any account (ancient Bulgarian art gallery): this really was the highlight of our stay. Another Russian church, a pastiche of Russian 17^th century architecture, is also highly attractive. This very small church was build for a homesick diplomat as the story goes. 

 

Be wary of taxis, a profession which has many crooks in Sofia. Whenever possible, get the reception of your hotel to call for a taxi for you. Elsewhere, use only two or three of the main companies like OK Supertrans or 91 280 which are highly respected. At the airport, in the arrivals hall, there is a reservation counter which you should use. Yet, such swindling won't ruin you given the favourable exchange rate. Rip-off or not, taxis remain a very inexpensive means of transport: it costs no more than approximately 12 Lev to cross Sofia (i.e.  6 €).

 

Constructed in red brick, Saint-George's Rotunda and the Church of St-Sofia are among the oldest sanctuaries in Sofia.  Built in the 4^th century, under the reign of Constantine the Great, the former is probably a baptistry whose walls – how marvellous – still bear five successive layers of murals. Around the building, which also served as a mosque, you will see the remains of the Roman Sofia, Serdica.

As for the Church of St-Sofia  (which gave its name to the city), it is built on the remains of several churches, the oldest of which can be traced back to the 4^th century. The opening in the basement of an archeological museum should form a suitable setting for the many remains unearthed, especially tombs and Byzantine mosaics. 

 

Sofia has several mosques, one of which, Banja Baši Mosque, still in service, dates back to 1576 with its slender minaret.  Built by the great Hadji Mimar Sinar (architect of Edirne Mosque) , this mosque draws its name ('banja') from the presence of hot sources which the Romans used for their thermal baths. On their supposed location muncipal baths were built at the beginning of the 20^th century and decorated with wonderful polychrome tiles. They are about to be converted to a museum on the city.

 

The Bulgarian language uses the cyrillic alphabet. You are therefore recommended to take a short phonetic conversation guide. The guide on Sofia published by Inside Out in cooperation with the  Institut français de Sofia (free), and the Green Guide on Bulgaria, feature a lexicon and the main expressions. Few Bulgarians speak English, including in bars and restaurants, which we realised on the spot (fortunately menus are nearly always available in English).

 

Just behind the mosque and market is located Sofia's synagogue (Exarh Josif Street), one of Europe's biggest, built by the Austrian architect Friedrich Grünanger at the beginning of the 20^th  century. Its Hispano-Mauresque style draws inspiration from the great Sephardic synagogue in Vienna, today destroyed. An ally of Germany during the Second World War, Tsar Boris III endeavoured, with relative success, to protect Bulgarian Jews, except however for those who lived in the new territories annexed with the help of the Reich, in Macedonia for example.  After the war, the creation of Israel and the Communist dictatorship in  Bulgaria encouraged Jews to emigrate. A census in 2001 counted a small community of 5,000 Jews still living in Bulgaria. 

 

National History Museum. The former governmental residence of the Communist dictator, Todor Živkov, today houses a museum on the history of Bulgaria, giving an essential insight into this country. The treasure of the Thracians discovered in Panagjurište is worth a visit in itself. 

Archeological museum. Located in a large 15^th century mosque, these rich collections comprise ancient Thracian and Roman remains of great significance. The golden dishes of the Valcitran  treasure are priceless masterpieces.

National Fine Arts Gallery. The former royal palace, the gallery, which today also houses the ethnographic museum, is worth visiting as much for its collections (Bulgarian paintings from the 19^th to 20^th century) as for its splendid, old-fashioned decor in  which  the Saxe-Cobourg-Gotha   monarchy died out in 1946. 

 

It is in the streets, markets, bars and little shops that Sofia's oriental charm will overcome you.  The Market (Halite), a large metallic structure built in 1909 and recently restored, forms a good introduction to daily life in Sofia. You'll find here stalls selling not only food but also electrical appliances. There are also a few fast food outlets (upstairs) and a French brasserie on the ground floor. Sofia's only pedestrian street, Pirotska Street, is located next to it. It has a multitude of cafes,  small fashion shops and inexpensive telephony and electronics shops. A few streets from here, you'll come across Sofia's souk, the women's market!  Under the Communist dictatorship, mothers came here to sell their fruit and vegetables to earn an extra copper. The stalls offer, at very inexpensive prices, Turkish clothing and all kinds of food (especially Greek olives and oils and Bulgarian and Turkish breads).  

 

Smaller and more expensive (everything is relative), the food market on Graf Ignatiev Street, also comprises a few sellers of CDs. A book (mainly in Bulgarian or English) market is held on Slaveikov Square. As for software on sale, be wary, they are (often) pirated versions. Sofia's flea market is located on the square in front of Alexander Nevski Cathedral. You'll find here stalls with objects from the Communist period and even from the Nazi era –  such as knives, insignia, shapkas, water bottles, medals and badges –, often without interest, if not sinister!  The few Leica cameras seemed expensive and timeworn to us.  It's better to give your custom to painters of icons and naive scenes or sellers of hand-made household linen.

 

 

National History Museum. Daily 9:30-18:00. Ten minutes from town centre by taxi.

Archeological Museum.Daily except Sun. and Mon. 10:00-18:00.

Fine Arts Museum. 1 Battenberg Square, daily except Mon. 10:00-18:30.

Time difference: when it is noon in London it is 14:00 in Sofia. Bulgaria changes time in spring and autumn on the same dates as in other European countries.

Where to sleep? The Radisson SAS Hotel offers, from its odd number rooms, one of the most beautiful views over Sofia: in the foreground, Narodno Square with its majestic equestrian statue of Tsar Osvoboditel (Alexander III), further afield the Parliament, and behind it Alexander Nevski  Cathedral – very impressive. Excellent service and interesting prices at weekend (153 € for a single room from Friday to Sunday). 

Radisson SAS Hotel, 4, Narodno Sabranie Sq.

Tel.: + 359 2 9334 615

1 euro = approx £ 0.68