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Udong served as capital of Cambodia from 1618 to 1866. Its main attractions today are two humps overlooking the plain of the Tonle Sap to the northwest of Phnom Penh. Climb the higher one: a stupa containing royal ashes, ruins of the temple of the Buddha destroyed by the Khmer Rouge… Paddy fields and houses on piles stretch as far as the eye can see.

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