Once past a superb primary forest of high trees, the road reaches Ganh Dau (40km), a small fishing port nestled in a delightful bay at the northwest tip of the island. Just out to sea, but inaccessible as they are part of Cambodia (photos are strictly prohibited), are a string of tiny islands. Why not enjoy a fresh drink of coconut milk at the drinks stall at the end of the track, next to the white sandy beach. The poverty of local villagers casts something of a shadow on this idyllic scene.