Here, as in every other seaside town in Croatia, the inhabitants refer to the sea front as the Riva. In Zadar, this is partially lined with extremely ugly modern constructions, built after the Second World War. However, level with Hotel Zagreb is the old town as it was in the 19C under the Austrians with a sophisticated promenade lined with cafés and restaurants. It was however, sadly, very damaged during the bombing, but the sea air is nonetheless refreshing.