This walk takes you along the “horseshoe”, a rare example of town planning. The facades are crowned with gables, pinnacles and turrets, and adorned with balconies, terraces, loggias and recesses. This area is further embellished by atlantes, caryatids, cherubs, Venuses emerging from the waves, and mythological figures. The overall effect is of a hymn to modernity, from a period (1880-1900) imbued with Classical culture.

Zagreb emerged out of Kaptol, the episcopal city, and Gradec, the feudal city. Gradec, whose upper section lacks atmosphere, becomes livelier as it heads down to the market and will be a real jewel once fully restored. Visitors will need to search out its hidden treasures by exploring its courtyards, carriage entrances and cellar cafés, perhaps catching glimpses of the surrounding hills above its gardens.