Today the backdrop for musicians, booksellers and café terraces from where visitors may observe the locals’ comings and goings under the shady palms at its centre, Havana’s greatest square was formerly the setting for less leisurely activity. Laid out in 1582 for military drill, it later grew in size and became beautified. Renovations in 1929 gave it its current majestic aspect. Among the flowers at its centre stands the statue of Carlos Manuel de Cespédes, hero of the war of independence.