Imposing though it is, the cathedral of Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is but part of a broader picture in Parque Céspedes, a square which, although relatively small, bursts with animation. Its street life is one of beautiful young people, itinerant vendors, children playing football, chatting pensioners and musicians. It is a pleasure to mingle among the crowds here to savour in vivo the pervasive joys of Cuban life.