5km from Trinidad, stop at mirador de la Loma for a first look at the verdant Sierra del Escambray, where Che Guevara did valiant deeds from 1958 to 1965. 100km long, its highest point is the 1 140m-high San Juan peak. Though of modest altitude, it is a rugged landscape with gushing torrents and fluctuating temperatures. Head gently up the winding paths through the scrub to the Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes among coffee plantations, eucalyptus and tree ferns on a carpet of lichen.