A climb up Monte Stello (1 307m) is a good introduction to the region. On clear days it commands stunning panoramic views of the entire headland (about 6hr there and back on foot). On the east coast Erbalunga's houses line the waterside of a headland at the end of which stands a Genoese tower. It is also worth stopping at the village of Rogliano. Its towers, church façades and tall old buildings lie in a lush green hollow sheltered by Monte Poggio. An unmissable stage of a tour of the headland, this time on the west coast, is Centuri, a tiny port framed by houses with stone-slab roofs. Another is Pino, set in greenery, whose houses, Genoese towers, church and funeral chapels seem to cling to the mountain face. At Nonza, it is the fortress that seems to hang 100m above sea level. Patrimonio, renowned for its vineyards, is the ideal place for a gastronomical break. The Pass of Teghime has sweeping views of the headland from east to west.