Last bastion of peasant culture, the Larzac plateau rises like a limestone fortress, dotted with villages and Templar commanderies (such as Ste-Eulalie-de-Cernon). Covering 1 000km2 of arid plain punctuated by rocky outcrops, this is the largest plateau in the Aveyron. During the first week in July, riders on horseback revive the medieval salt caravan routes from Thau, Aigues-Mortes and St-Gilles, which carried this precious cargo to the markets of the Massif Central.