Donna Dailey - 2008-05-12

 

Manchester was the key city of Britain's Industrial Revolution. From the late 18th century until the 1950s, it was the world's largest cotton processing and trading centre, nicknamed 'Cottonopolis'. The city centre teemed with mills, factories and warehouses, setting the stage for some of the first demonstrations for workers' economic and political rights.

 

In 1819 a rally in St Peter's Fields led to the Peterloo Massacre, in which a dozen people were killed by soldiers called in to disperse the crowd. Manchester became a hotbed for radical thinkers, most notably Karl Marx and Friedrich Engels, who wrote his first book, The Condition of the Working Class in England, in 1844 after working in his father's Manchester textile factory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two pivotal music events took place at the Free Trade Hall. When Bob Dylan performed here in 1966, he switched from acoustic to electric guitar in public for the first time. Someone in the audience called out 'Judas!', a cry that went down in Manchester's musical history.

 

Ten years later, the Sex Pistols played their first gig outside London here. There were only 30-40 people in the audience, but several of them became key figures in the Manchester music scene: Peter Hook of Joy Division and New Order, Morrissey of the Smiths, Mark E Smith of The Fall, Mick Hucknall of Simply Red, and Pete Shelley and Howard DeVoto of the Buzzcocks.

 

The Sex Pistols' anarchic music inspired them to go out and form their own bands. Most influential of all was the late Tony Wilson, a journalist and TV presenter who co-founded the Factory Records label which recorded many of the Manchester bands.

 

 

 

Opposite the Radisson along Windmill Street, the former railway station Manchester Central became another concert venue after it was converted to the G-Mex exhibition centre in 1986. It's now reverted to its original name.

 

The handsome terra cotta-faced building opposite is the Midland Hotel. Mr Rolls met Mr Royce here in 1904, leading to one of the world's most famous partnerships. The classic automobiles were first made in Manchester, and most are still produced in the UK.

 

 

 

Canals were an important part of industrial Manchester, transporting coal, raw materials and finished goods in and out of the city. Today they are only used by narrowboats for pleasure cruises, but they remain an attractive feature of modern Manchester, lined in many spots with cobbled paths and cafe-bars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Further along, steps lead up to Deansgates Locks, where several hip bars and clubs are set into the old railway arches along the bank of the canal.

 

Cross over Whitworth Street to reach Little Peter Street, where another music landmark is tucked away amidst old factory buildings and new flats. A blue plaque marks the Boardwalk, a former nightclub and rehearsal venue used by everyone from the Hallé Orchestra to the Happy Mondays. This was where Oasis first played.

 

 

 

 

Manchester has several distinct quarters within its compact and easily walkable city centre. Piccadilly, with its train station and spacious civic gardens, is the main gateway.

 

Adjoining it are bustling Chinatown and the Gay Village, which is lined with cafes, bars and restaurants along Canal Street, a traffic-free oasis beside the Rochdale Canal.

 

 

 

 

But the trendiest area of Manchester is the Northern Quarter. This bohemian district is full of laid-back pubs, cafes and music bars. Along its main drag, Oldham Street, are many second-hand record stores, quirky shops and boutiques. None is funkier than Affleck's Palace, a collection of little shops with trendy fashion by young designers, at the corner of Oldham and Church streets.

 

On the back of the building along Tib Street is a series of mosaic murals by Mark Kennedy featuring famous people in Manchester's history. Bob Dylan's 'Judas' moment is there, along with leading figures from the city's music scene.

 

 

 

 

 

Manchester city centre is packed with great bars, clubs, cafes and restaurants. Be sure to book a table on busy weekend nights, especially if Manchester United is playing that day.

 

50 Great Bridgewater Street

Tel: 0161 236 5895

In 1811, the army used this historic pub as a recruiting station for mill workers coming off their shifts at nearby factories. Local beers and a long list of whiskies and bourbons complement the traditional atmosphere.

 

Beetham Tower

303 Deansgate

Tel: 0161 870-1600

Manchester's first Sky Bar in the Hilton Hotel is the hippest spot in town. Set halfway up the sleek, 47-floor Beetham Tower, its main attraction is the stupendous views (you can book a window-side table in advance). The Mancunian-themed cocktails are pricy but worth a splurge.

 

2-4 Cathedral Gates

Tel: 0161 834 0430 and 0871 207 1737

Standing side by side, the Old Wellington Inn and Sinclair's Oyster Bar date from the mid 1500s and 1700s respectively. They were moved from an ancient street (the Shambles) and resurrected in all their half-timbered glory on this site adjoining Exchange Square. A great place for pub meals, seafood and enjoying a brew at the outdoor tables.

 

52 Cross Street

Tel: 0161 832 2245

The tiny Victorian bar, opened by Mr Thomas Studd in 1867, fronts a much-lauded gastropub serving the best of British fare, such as brown onion soup, black pudding fritters, corned beef hash and traditional grilled meats. Booking is advised on weekends.

 

Jackson's Row

Tel: 0161 835 3536

A chance to try superb British and Mediterranean dishes at moderate prices from renowned local chef Paul Heathcote. His spacious, city-centre restaurant is set in an old warehouse with minimalist decor.

 

26 Oldham Street

Tel: 0161 236 4597

By day it's a laid-back cafe-bar in the Northern Quarter. At night, it's a stalwart on the Manchester music scene for cult favourites of both local and international fame.

 

64 Tib Street

Tel: 0161 831 7002

The only club in Manchester dedicated to live jazz (Monday-Saturday), with regional musicians and international artists in the spotlight. This Northern Quarter favourite also serves great pizza, set menus and cocktails.

 

Smithfield Market, Thomas Street

Tel: 0161 839 7195

Trendy Northern Quarter bar and restaurant set in a former fish market, with a large ground-floor bar, intimate basement bar and outdoor terrace. The menu features modern European cuisine.

 

5-8 Thomas Street

Tel: 0161 833 3197

A simple but good British menu, imported beers from around the world, live music and the occasional comedy night are a winning recipe at this trendy but laid-back Northern Quarter restaurant-bar.

 

100 Great Bridgewater Street

Tel: 0161 278 1610

It's not to everyone's taste, but this revamped public lavatory is one of Manchester's quirkier spots to grab a beer. Small, subterranean and definitely memorable.

 

70 Oxford Street

Tel: 0161 200 1500

The place in Manchester for arthouse cinema, bookshops and galleries. The cafe serves pizza and appetizers till 11pm. The bar features weekend DJs.

 

1 York Street

Tel: 819 1055