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On an arid hilltop encircled by mountains are the ruins of Mycenae, the town described by Homer as "rich in gold". This fortified settlement saw an original civilisation flourish in the second millennium BC and go on to influence Greek civilisation. Yet it was here that one of the bloodiest Greek tragedies unfolded: that of the royal family of the Atreides. Visiting these ruins only makes sense if the episodes of this cruel history are remembered.

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