Although linked to Surabaya by a 5.4km bridge since 2009, Madura has conserved its distinct character. Here, the volcanic landscape gives way to flat, dry terrain; the population of fishermen, salt-makers and cattle rearers has been traditionally Muslim since the 16C and the people are renowned for being shy and unapproachable. People come to Pakwmasan every year (August-September) for Kerapan Sari, the bull race, which is popular on the whole island. The coastal road takes you to great beaches.