The Alun-alun Utara is a vast green square adorned with two sacred banyan trees which plays host to the city's parades and events. For one month in the year, the square is given over to a public festival but for the rest of the time it is the preserve of scores of warung (cheap restaurants), which tempt you every evening to tuck into the martabak (a thick filled pancake) by the flickering light of a paraffin lamp.