Nowadays, the first capital of Mataram, founded in 1575 by Panembahan Senopati (whose tomb is greatly venerated by the Javanese), is nothing more than a quiet suburb of Yogyakarta. Yet it has preserved from its golden age a robust silver work tradition, with workshops packed into the little streets around Jalan Kemasan. You can walk around the central market, with its remarkable play of light and shadow, or on Jalan Mondorakan, between the elegant early-20C Javanese mansions.