A line of pinisi is moored along the quayside of Sunda Kelapa, which used to be a stopping point on the Spice Route: wood arrives from Sumatra and Kalimantan on these traditional slim-bowed sailing ships in an array of colours. The unloading of the commodity gives rise to frenetic activity as the cargo is carried up narrow beams forming improvised gangways. The picturesque fish market is located in a kampung (popular neighbourhood) at the end of the quay and makes for a disorientating foray. Take the boat there – the best time is at 5am.