Bali’s second-highest mountain, volcanic Batukaru (2 276m) has on its southern flanks the island’s finest terraced rice paddy landscape, particularly around the villages of Gunungsari and Jatiluwih: the latter’s name means “truly marvellous”. It has been nominated as a Unesco world heritage site on account of its spectacular beauty and also Bali’s subak system of irrigation, reliant on cooperation among farmers. It is hard to resist the urge to paddle among its sparkling pools.