The little frequented Skellig Ring (signposted from the N 70) cuts across wild landscapes via charming little roads. Ballinskelligs village is the start of a predominantly Irish-speaking area – gaeltacht (roadsigns only in Gaelic). Look out for the ruins of the Ballinskelligs Priory by the sea. After St Finan's Bay, the road climbs up to the austere mountain, which affords a marvellous panoramic view, before plunging towards Portmagee, a small fishing port with multi-coloured façades.