The 13C Sanjusangen-do Temple is an unadorned wooden structure that stretches out over 120m. In contrast to this austere external appearance is the incredible extravaganza inside. In the dim lighting you can make out 1 001 statues of the Goddess of Mercy, Kannon, all pressed up together, hands joined, faces ecstatic, forming a dense crowd that is dripping with gold. At their feet, the 28 guardian deities, all scrutinising you with their crystal eyes, are quite disturbing.