Inside the medina, between the tourists and Essaouira women dressed in their haiks, the tangle of little streets are in a constant state of animation. Spices, fish and other victuals are sold alongside bracelets and necklaces. It all takes place on the Avenue de l'Istiqlal, under the arches of the Jdid souk. Heading back up Rue El-Attarine, you reach Avenue Mohammed Ben Abdallah, a long shopping street that leads to the mellah, or old Jewish quarter.