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A weekend in Maastricht (Holland)

Georges Rouzeau - 2010-03-02

Maastricht is one those rare towns that combines age-old history, a first class, spirited architectural heritage with vitality, activities and a cheerful atmosphere. An ideal place for a weekend away!

The Town that's more than just a Treaty
The Dutch from the North of the Netherlands think of Maastricht as being ‘the South’ – a promised land of happiness and a coveted way of life. The capital of Limburg and town of the famous European Union Treaty is one of their favourite weekend destinations. With an array of bars (apparently there are several hundred), restaurants (of which many are Michelin star-rated) and shops, there’s no chance of feeling bored in this prosperous and fun-loving student town.
 
An important town in the Roman era, then, later, a town of pilgrimage, Maastricht has long been a part of the diocese of Liège, so there should be no surprise if you find Rheno-Mosan works of art originating from her Belgian counterpart. Besides the masterworks of the Basilicas of Our Lady and Saint Servatius, Maastricht has managed to preserve some beautiful 17th and 18th century stone houses such as those in Stokstraat. Their ground floors often house attractive clothes and interior design boutiques. You may also notice a strong French connection with an abundance of shops and restaurants with French names, deriving from the fact that the town remained annexed to France until 1814.
 
Old Stones
Maastricht has preserved a few sections of its old city wall which has numerous imposing towers and runs adjacent to several parks. You can walk along a part of the rampart walkway which leads to Hell’s Gate (Helpport), itself flanked by two round towers. This is a relic from the 13th century fortification and is the oldest town gate in the Netherlands. St.-Bernardusstraat then takes you to the Square of Our Lady basilica (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwebasiliek), the town’s oldest monument, whose construction began in the year CE 1000. Probably built upon the site of an ancient Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter, the basilica possesses an impressive fortified front facade. The interior is magnificent, particularly the choir with its ambulatory surmounted by a gallery.In the side chapel, at the entrance, there is a statue of the baptised Virgin “Star of the Sea” (Sterre der Zee), which is the object of Marian devotions and an important pilgrimage in the Netherlands.
 
Staying in Maastricht
The Hotel Beaumont and its restaurant is situated in an attractive 1920s corner building, a stone’s throw from the railway station and five minutes from the bridge over the river Maas that leads to the historic centre. The classical decoration is played out in varying shades of taupe; the rooms are soundproofed and have a good level of comfort but each one is of a very different size. I also visited the nearby Townhouse hotel, a boutique designer hotel which models itself on a bed & breakfast, with a large lobby with reception on one side and kitchen with a large communal table and microwave oven on the other. The hotel has an annexe on the other side of the street, but I wasn't thrilled by its cold design and its atmosphere that resembled a students' hall of residence.
For a real Bed & Breakfast, you should go to Kind of Blue, a classical Maastricht residence that has three rooms (one is en suite with a lounge) with a garden in the backyard. Its friendly owner teaches management at the University and has a passion for jazz and the arts that rubs off on the plush and understated decoration of this attractive guesthouse.
 
Hotel Beaumont
Wycker Brugstraat 2
6221 EC Maastricht, Netherlands
043 3254433
 
Hotel Townhouse
Sint Maartenslaan 6
6221 AV Maastricht, Netherlands
Tel: 043 3211111
 
2behotel Kind of Blue
Wilhelminasingel 87
6221 AV Maastricht, Netherlands
Tel. 043 3101160
 
Hans Van Volde, Chef at Beluga
I didn’t get time to sample the cuisine at Beluga (two Michelin stars), but I did meet its chef, Hans Van Holde. Born to a magician father and a family of musicians, Van Holde admires chefs like Alain Passard and Pierre Gaignaire, has the look of a rocker and, in his spare time, does a spot of DJing. His classical-modernist cuisine, with a strong inclination towards sweet and sour, was termed by one critic as “naughty.” It is indeed mischievous, cheeky and irreverent, like his crisp shell of caramel filled with crab meat, crab liver and caviar... His restaurant can be found in a modern building in the Ceramic district with a view over the Maas.
Beluga
Plein 1992 nr 12 NL - 6221 JP Maastricht
Tel. (0 43) 321 33 64
 
Thermae 2000
Approximately 30 minutes by car from the centre of Maastricht, this spa and health centre uses water from three springs which flow from a depth of 400 metres in the limestone earth of Limburg. Indoor swimming pools, outdoor baths and an impressive number of saunas at different temperatures all contribute to a luxuriant moment spent in the midst of a green hilly landscape.
 
Thermae 2000
27Kuurpark Cauberg 
Valkenburg  aan de Geul (Fauquemont)
Tel. 043/601-9445
 
Churches of Maastricht transformed into a hotel and a bookshop
Two of Maastricht’s churches, including the Netherlands’ first Gothic church built as early as 1266, have been radically transformed. The first one into a luxury designer hotel-restaurant and the second into a... bookshop! A previous ViaMichelin article focused on the subject: Maastricht gives new life to its churches (link). I dined at the famous Kruisenherenhotel where the dining room is situated on a sort of balcony suspended midway between heaven and earth. Despite the pallid cooking, it’s worth a visit just for the atmosphere alone.
 
Bisschopsmolen, the Bishop’s Mill Bakery
Located in a backstreet close to the Our Lady basilica, this bakery offers bread made with rye flour ground in its very own mill situated on the small river (the Jeker) that runs just behind the shop. The bakery is also renowned for its rice tarts and its variety of fruit tarts (particularly the apricot one.) There are a few tables in the back room where you can have a coffee and a slice of tart, or have lunch - a platter of Dutch cheeses, the soup of the day or hot bread with sausage.
Bisschopsmolen
Stenenbrug 1-3. 6211 Maastricht
 
Shopping in Maastricht: antiques and fashion 
This dynamic and opulent town offers an abundance of shopping choices. In the area of antique shops (along the city walls), where attractive Mosan style stone houses line the roads with dignity, you’ll find items such as a Ming dynasty Chinese terracotta horseman or Fang mask from Gabon on display. Men’s fashion is also very well represented. There are international chain stores and local boutiques which are, of course, a lot dearer. Every store of interest is situated in the main area between Vrijthof Square and the station.
 
The Bonnefantenmuseum
The town’s main museum, the Museum of Good Children, designed by Italian architect Aldo Rossi in 1992, is visible from afar thanks to its zinc dome and red bricks. The museum exhibits both a collection of contemporary art (Luciano Fabro, Mario Merz, Sol LeWitt) and an exceptional collection of art from the Middle Ages. The cafeteria is very popular due to its pleasant surroundings and its value for money for soups and pasta dishes.
 
Useful Information
The Netherlands Tourist Office
PO Box 30783
London WC2B 6DH
Tel: 020 7539 7958
Fax: 020 7539 7953
 
Eurostar
The price of a Eurostar ticket covers the journey from London to any Belgian station, so you can travel to Visé then pay a few Euros extra for the remaining kilometres over the border to Maastricht.
www.eurostar.com

Maastricht is one those rare towns that combines age-old history, a first class, spirited architectural heritage with vitality, activities and a cheerful atmosphere. An ideal place for a weekend away!

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