This small town will be forever associated with the horrors of Nazism and the Holocaust. Incorporated into the Third Reich, its name was germanicised to Auschwitz, by which it was known for the next six years. These two syllables evoke the greatest mass murder in the history of humanity. Primarily a memorial rather than a museum, it is today one of Poland’s most visited sites (30 million people have come since 14 June 1947 and continue to visit at a rate of 500 000 a year).