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Lisbon: our address book

Lisbon: our address book

Claire Baudoin - 2008-04-21

Lady Lisbon has a new panache: all along her banks, East to West, blank walls have been torn down, paths laid out, abandoned hangars transformed into restaurants and bars... A great many irresistible charms to entice anyone who’d like to get to know her better.

To the east, the modern Nations Park (formerly Expo 98) district is a lively area day or night. It is well appreciated for its many bars and restaurants, especially on the banks of the Tagus.
Bica do Sapato
Av. Infante D. Henrique, Armazém B
Cais da Pedra à Bica do Sapato
1900 Lisboa
Tel: (00 351) 218 810 320
Around €50/person
This hip restaurant located in an old warehouse opened its doors in 1999. Sporting a very modern decor, its big bay windows on the ground floor open onto an esplanade where light meals are served.
Upstairs, the menu features Portuguese and Japanese cuisine.
The West side of the city, between Santos and the Belém Tower, also presents a wide choice of bars, restaurants and night clubs.
Kais – Restaurante – Bar
Cais da Viscondessa
Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa
1200-109 Lisboa
Tel: (00 351) 213 932 930
Fax: (00 351) 213 932 939.
€75 - €90 per person
Situated in a late 19C hangar where energy for the trams was once produced, this restaurant’s interior decor - created by a famous Portuguese designer - respects the building’s industrial heritage. The play of lights and candles, the sound of water falling into a pool, the large bay windows and jazzy background music all create a unique, welcoming atmosphere where refined international cuisine is served. The Adega do Kais (cellar) below is a cosier gathering place.
Tromba Rija (a Michelin Guide restaurant) 
Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa
Edifício 254 – Armazém 1
1200-109 Lisboa
Tel: (00 351) 213 971 507
Closed Monday lunch and Sunday  
The over-the-top gastronomic menu offered by the first Tromba Rija - located in the city of Leira - was so successful that offshoots have sprung up across the country. The “Saborear Portugal (Tastes of Portugal)” menu, at €30-35 per person, is an excellent choice, as it offers a bountiful selection of all-you-can-eat fare. Highly recommended for gourmets with hearty appetites!
Cervejaria Portugália
Rua da Cintura do Porto de Lisboa
Doca de Santos
1200-109 Lisboa
Tel: (00 351) 213 422 138
Around €20/person
Built in the 1910s in Lisbon, A Portugalia was originally a brewery which rapidly acquired an excellent reputation under the skilled guidance of German specialists. After a successful metamorphosis, today’s Cervejaria Portugália consists of fifteen brasserie/restaurants, six of which are in Lisbon. They offer excellent draught beer, naturally, along with tasty traditional fare.
The house specialties are seafood, bife à Portugália (steak served with a fried egg and creamy sauce) and açorda (a coriander, olive oil and garlic-flavoured bread soup prepared with a choice of shellfish, cod, etc...). A sister brasserie is to be found to the west, near by the Discovery Monument (Cervejaria Portugália-Belém).
Conventual (Michelin Guide restaurant) 
Praça das Flores, nº 45
1200-192 Lisboa
Tel/Fax: (00 351) 213 909 196.
Closed Saturday and Monday lunch, all day Sunday, and August.
Honoured with several epicurean awards, this restaurant located near the Assembly of the Republic gives onto a pleasant, shady square. It owes its name to the decor, gleaned from ancient monasteries, and recipes originating in convents of the past. Political and cultural celebrities often dine at Conventual, generally considered to be one of Lisbon’s best traditional establishments. Fine, well-rounded list of Portuguese wines.
Centre City
Restaurante Eleven
Rua Marquês da Fronteira
Jardim Amália Rodrigues
Tel: (00351) 213 862 211
Closed Sunday
Express lunch menu at €40
Joaquim Koerper, master of Mediterranean haute cuisine, welcomes patrons into a refined space which ably blends modernism and traditional Portuguese elements. The imaginative fare calls on ingredients from the seasonal marketplace. Good wine cellar. Unbeatable view of Lisbon, with the River Tagus in the distance.
Olivier restaurante
35, rua do Teixeira
Bairro Alto
1200-459 Lisboa
Tel: (00 351) 213 431 405
Open 8 pm to 1 am; closed Sunday
In a solemn decor with dimmed lighting, Chef Olivier serves refined cuisine featuring a broad range of subtly-flavoured starters, Mediterranean main dishes, and delectable desserts.
Olivier and his sister Nathalie also run a second establishment, the Olivier Café, at 23, rua do Alecrim (Tel: (00 351) 213 422 916; €40/person).
Confeitaria de Belém
84, Rua de Belém
Tel: (00 351) 213 637 423
Open daily from 8 am to 11 pm
Lisbon’s most celebrated pastry shop owes its fame to a delicious recipe borrowed from the Hieronimites Monastery: the fêted Pastéis de Belém, a puff-pastry custard tart. Try it sprinkled with cinnamon and washed down with a Bica, an excellent espresso-type coffee.
No list of Lisbon restaurants would be complete without an address where you can enjoy first-rate fado. Here’s just one among the city’s most famous establishments:
Clube de Fado (Michelin Guide restaurant) 
Rua São João da Praça, nº 92
1100-521 Lisboa
Tel: 218 852 704
Its thick walls, columns, arches and Arabian fountain all contribute to the special atmosphere of this fine restaurant where the singularly enticing melodies of traditional fado can be enjoyed evening after evening.
Centro Comercial Colombo
Av. Lusiada
1500-392 Lisboa
Metro station: Colégio Militar/Luz
Open daily from 10 am to midnight
Designed around the theme of Portuguese Discoveries, the complex’s opulent greenery, fountains, and waterfalls bathed in soft natural light tend to overshadow the fact that this is Iberia’s biggest shopping centre, with 420 shops, 60 restaurants and 10 cinemas. Centro Comercial Colombo has been awarded 3 international prizes for architecture.
Armazéns do Chiado
Rua Nova da Almada
1200-290 Lisboa
Situated in the heart of an elegant, glamorous neighbourhood, this shopping complex inaugurated in 1999 is laid out around two shafts of natural light, resulting in an agreeable synthesis between modern comfort and the literary, artistic tradition of the quarter.
Shops are in the centre, businesses on the sides, and restaurants, bars and a hotel are above.

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