This vast neo-Romanian building (1912-1939) was the Romanian communist museum from 1966 to 1990. Remodelled to focus on the riches of rural life, it is one of the country’s most interesting museums, winning the European Museum of the Year award in 1996. The brainchild of painter and photographer Horia Bernea (1938-2000), this richly colourful and light space fulfils its purpose perfectly. A consolation (or frustration) for those without the time to explore Romania’s countryside.