Head out of Bicaz on Route 15 to reach the heart of the Ceahlau massif, the “Olympos of Moldavia”. At the well-named Gâtul Iadului (hell’s neck), the route enters the Bicaz Gorge, a narrow 8km defile linking Transylvania to Moldavia. The result of limestone rock erosion, the gorge has some spectacular scenery with rockfaces rising over 300m. Further along is the red lake, formed in 1837 after a landslide; its colour is due to ferrous oxide suspended in the water.