Lucie Wolner - 2012-09-06
Beyond the well-mannered waters of the Imperial City, ‘Peter’ bubbles with energy. Here are a few noteworthy addresses that are not museums, palaces or churches.
A curious name for a shop, as a banya is actually a sort of sauna where one wouldn’t necessarily expect to find fashion created by young Russian designers or international brands. There are pearls to be discovered here; you can try them on for size in a fitting room disguised as a shower.
Nab. Kanala Griboedova 20, at the far end of the courtyard.
Silina Elena Furs
Furs get plenty of bad press in London, Paris and New York, but you needn’t buy a mink coat, even if it is the best remedy against the region’s arctic temperatures. Instead, you might choose a furry shapka that will adorn the head and keep it toasty warm. Forever fashionable.
Ligoskii prospect 57
Tel: + 7 (812) 764 77 17
Loft Project Etagi
In the heart of St. Petersburg, Loft Project Etagi is a multi-purpose cultural centre housing galleries, exhibition areas, an art and design bookshop, a youth hostel and a café. The Loft Project covers five stories of what used to be a bakery; various bread ovens and machines are still visible here and there.
Ligovsky Prospekt 74
Tel: + 7 (812) 458 50 05
Entering Mari Vanna is like slipping onto a film set where they’re shooting the life of a Soviet family residing in a Soviet flat. With its knick-knacks on the dresser, bulky settee and guitar, the decor might well be stuck in time. The menu offers Russian specialities, from kasha (buckwheat groats) to pelmeni (meat dumplings). Mari Vanna has begot offspring as far away as London and New York.
Lenina Oul. 18
Tel: + 7 (812) 230 53 59
Notes and photos posted near the bar are proof that the intelligentsia gather here. Under the vaulted ceiling, shelves are laden with books and parlour games. An agreeable detail: the paper place settings are deliberately left blank so that customers can doodle whilst awaiting their (tasty and inexpensive) meals.
Gorohovaja Oul. 22
Tel: + 7 (812) 448 50 01
This Italian restaurant open since 2011 has kitchens fitted in old brick stables with the original high ceilings. A portrait of Gérard Depardieu is prominently displayed on one wall. The menu offers a choice of the best Mediterranean dishes. A place to see and be seen. Konouchennaïa Plochtchad 2
Tel: +7 (812) 647 82 82
The Dom Beat café-nightclub is the haunt of night owls of all feathers, from Bobos to hipsters, who dance ‘til the break of dawn with a glass of vodka-raspberry close by. Dom Beat’s party place reputation reaches all the way to Moscow.
Dom Beat, Raz’ezzhaïa 12
W St Petersburg
Open since summer 2011, W St Petersburg has revitalised the city’s choice of hotels. A stone’s throw from St. Isaac’s Square, the decor - a subtle reference to Fabergé eggs - is signed Antonio Citterio.
W St. Petersburg, Voznesenski Prospect 6
Tel: + 7 (812) 6106161