The heart of the old Moorish town, which was a vibrant quarter until the end of the Arab occupation in 1485, is a delightful labyrinth of picturesque alleyways fronted by museums, such as the Palacio de Mondragón, churches, convents and noble residences. Make sure you visit the 18C Casa del Rey Moro, home to the Forestier gardens and La Mina, a secret staircase that descends directly to the river. The minaret of St Sebastian is all that remains of the 14C Nasrid mosque.