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From Madrid to Heaven

From Madrid to Heaven

Cristina Reyes - 2010-11-29

A weekend in Madrid? Fashion, culture and restaurants... Discover the happening places of Spain’s capital, where Madrileños themselves like to hang out!

The unashamedly proud Madrileños have a proverb “From Madrid to Heaven” which raises their vibrant city, with all its bustle and charm, to the status of a celestial antechamber. Cosmopolitan yet deliciously provincial, at the forefront of the avant garde yet jealous of its traditions, modern and splendidly decadent, the Spanish capital is a city of contrasts and getting to know it is a real joy.  
 
The area surrounding Madrid’s three paseos (walks), of the Prado, Recoletos and la Castellana (the city’s main thoroughfare), weaves a web of streets and avenues which make up Old Madrid. This area can be explored on foot over a weekend, which is something of a rarity for such a large metropolis.
 
For every Madrileño worthy of the name, the day starts with a real breakfast. You can order one in the lively Café Commercial, from where you can head on to one of the town’s most interesting sites: the San Miguel Market. This unique place has been beautifully restored and converted into a delicatessen market and is a favourite of gourmets who come here to stock up on “bellota” ham, local cheeses, or who pass by to enjoy a little, mid-morning vermouth before the inevitable hordes of tourists from the neighbouring Plaza Mayor arrive and invade the place.
 
Time for ‘tapeo’
 
The sacrosanct institution of tapas starts at La Venencia. This old traditional bodega, with its diverse and regular clientele only serves fino (an Andalusian dry wine) accompanied by the two local specialities of mojamas (smoked tuna) and fish eggs. Beer aficionados, however, prefer the ever packed Cervecería Cervantes, opposite the Cristo de Medinaceli Church, an authentic place of pilgrimage for the local population, or La Taberna del 9, which is a tasca (popular bistro) with an unassuming facade. Here, away from the beaten tourist tracks, in the heart of the Chueca district this tasca serves wonderful homemade cooking. 
 
A Fashion Capital
 
Madrileños don’t just live for tapas: Madrid is also a fashion capital and a shopping Mecca. Names to look for include Alma Aguilar with his romantic creations, Pedro García and his wonderful shoes or the Clemente brothers and their El Ganso label whose preppy style has become a craze for young and old alike. These creators stand shoulders above the plethora of names in the world of Spanish fashion. However Fernando Lemoniez, at his boutique number 17 on the calle Argensola, is undoubtedly the  the most representative designer of authentic Madrileño chic.
 
Cultural Madrid
 
Just like fashion, culture is also an integral part of the life of Madrid. In the Alcala street you’ll find the mythical Círculo de Bellas Artes (Circle of Fine Arts.) For over a century this institution has been the cradle of Spain’s avant-garde and artistic movements. What’s more its restaurant is one of the capital’s best kept secrets. Politicians, businessmen and artists enjoy its very affordable menu of the day in its imposing and perfectly preserved, if somewhat outdated surroundings. Two of the city’s unmissable cultural attractions are the Mapfre Foundation and The Caixaforum, a building designed by the architects Herzog and Meuron with its vertical garden facade that’s inseparable from Madrid’s urban landscape.    
 
Madrid by night
 
By night even the most conventional Madrileños hunt out the latest trends. Le Cabrera is currently one of the most popular places. This gastronomic hot spot has a luxury tapas bar on the first floor and the thing of the moment, a cocktail bar in the basement. Another great revelation of the moment is the recently opened Nikkei 225 which has been receiving a lot of attention. This Japanese-Peruvian restaurant is representative of a culinary trend that is currently in vogue in Madrid. At number 26 on the same street is a Mediterranean alternative, the Tomate gastrobar which is more informal than its neighbour and is equally appreciated by the beautiful people who come here to see and be seen.
 
Finally, compulsive night owls and other late-night revellers will find Madrid to be paradise on earth. In fact the Spanish have an almost religious devotion to copas (going for drinks) in cult places such as La Turba, the nearly hundred year old Bar Cock or Chicote - an establishment which used to be frequented by the international intelligentsia. Thus, on a high note, the Madrileños bring their day and night to a close.    
 
 
USEFUL INFORMATION
 
Café Comercial
Glorieta de Bilbao, 7
28004 Madrid
Tel. 0034 915 215 655
 
Mercado de San Miguel
Plaza San Miguel
28005 Madrid
Tel. 0034 915 424 936
 
La Venencia
Calle de Echegaray, 7
28014 Madrid
Tel. 0034 914 297 313
 
Cervecería Cervantes
Plaza Jesús, 7
28012 Madrid
Tel. 0034 914 296 093
 
La Taberna del 9
Santa Teresa, 9
28004 Madrid
Tel. 0034 913 192 946
 
Le Cabrera
Calle Bárbara de Braganza, 2
28004 Madrid
Tel. 0034 913 199 457
 
Nikkei 225
Paseo de la Castellana, 15
28046 Madrid
Tel. 0034 913 190 390
 
Bar Tomate
Calle de Fernando El Santo, 26
28046 Madrid
Tel. 0034 917 023 870
 
La Turba
Calle Conde de Xiquena, 3
28004 Madrid
Tel. 0034 915 221 813
 
Bar Cock
Calle de la Reina, 16
28004 Madrid
Tel. 0034 915 322 826
 
Museo Chicote
Gran Vía, 12
28013 Madrid
Tel. 0034 915 326 737
 

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