Umm Qais stands on the site of the ancient town of Gadara; built in the fertile Yarmouk Valley, it formed part of the Decapolis, a political and economic union of ten Hellenistic towns which flourished thanks to developments in agriculture. Gadara is also renowned for its intellectual prowess; it produced numerous authors. Today its remains are readily accessible; follow the decumanus to reach the magnificent west theatre, one of three theatres here and the site’s main feature.