Estelle Mariotte - 2010-07-02

These days in Ortaköy the typical Turkish charm is still present, but the old fisherman’s village has become a lot busier, especially at the weekend. This is when the artisans’ market transforms the streets into something resembling Ali Baba’s caves where you can hunt out all kinds of clothes, bags, accessories, bric-a-brac and antiques as you amble along the stalls.

 

 

Istanbulites love to party and the Bosphoros coast enjoys a refreshing breeze in the summer. This explains the appearance of Ortaköy’s first night-clubs, in the open-air with terraces overlooking the water. With techno music, lasers and cocktails under the stars, nightlife on the Bosphoros very quickly became all the rage and Ortaköy’s clubs gained a reputation of being the hippest in Istanbul.

 

The clubs are lined along the Çirağan Caddesi and Muallim Naci Caddesi, two avenues which run alongside the sea inlet. Each of them has its own distinct atmosphere, but all have restaurants, bars, dancefloors and terraces. For a typical night out on the Bosphoros you can expect the following:  you reserve a table in a club and you arrive to dine around 10pm. The dishes on offer blend Asian notes with Mediterranean flavours: Chicken with Cashew nuts, Swordfish with Caper sauce, Prawn Curry, Kebabs with Peanut sauce. These dishes are served at reasonable prices and even in the most stylish of establishments you can find main courses for 30 YTL (£13).

 

After the meal you move on to the bar where by comparison the drinks are  a lot more expensive. A cocktail costs, for instance, on average 20 YTL (£8.50). But this is largely compensated by the atmosphere. The alcoves are designed in the latest styles and the dance floors are awash with laser lights.  The music is provided by international DJs and the styles vary according to the club.  At Sortie everyone gets down to techno beats, whilst at Reina an array of celebrities are attracted by electro music. Top models, singers, sports personalities, cinema and television stars are all to be found here every night ensuring Reina’s reputation as theclub to be seen at. It was indeed the first club to open on the shores of the Bosphorous in 2002.

 These nocturnal hang outs are bursting with life whilst their terraces are the ideal spots to re-acquaint yourself with some calm. The latter look out over an unforgettable panorama:  the Bosphorus suspension bridge draped in electric lights. At Suada you relax sitting on benches by the light of candle jars, in an atmosphere that could almost be Hollywood. Its Olympic sized swimming pool on its huge terrace is the centre of attraction both night and day.

 

Another aspect of the Bosphoros clubbing scene is the presentations of alternative art imported from Amsterdam by the Supperclub.  Since its opening in 2007, this club renewed the Ortaköy nightlife scene by putting on performances in an ambience of minimalist decor.   This new way of nightclubbing has rapidly found its adepts.

 

The faithful of the Bosphorus clubs don’t move from one place to another throughout the night. They dress stylishly, which is the prerequisite for getting past the bouncers and they arrive in couples or in groups with as many girls as there are boys. And they come ready to spend! A night out costs around 70 YTL (£31) including the entrance fee plus two cocktails Meals will raise your bill, as will the degree of celebrity of the guest DJ or musicians.

The current craze for Bosphorus nightlife nevertheless means it enjoys a very specialised music scene. The jazz club, Istanbul Jazz Center is famous for hosting world renowned performers. This exclusive venue for jazz enthusiasts has a veloured atmosphere which adds to the charm of the place.

 

In 2010 the Bosphoros nightlife will also be cultural with events for Istanbul’s hosting of the European Capital of Culture. Two hotels situated in historic residences of Ortaköy will be putting on concerts and exhibitions. The Hotels Marmara Esma Sultan and Çirağan Palace Kempinski will be hosting part of Istanbul’s International Music Festival and Istanbul’s International Jazz Festival. The latter is an old palace where 25 of the events on Istanbul’s 2010 cultural programme will be held. It will include contemporary art exhibitions in the hotel reception which are freely accessible at any time, every day. An initiative which is most welcome.

 

 

 

By bus: From Istanbul’s city centre (Taksim square) buses 40, 40T, 42T, DT1 and DT2  go to Ortaköy. It is a 20 minute journey. Tickets cost 1.30 YTL.

By taxi: Keep an eye out to see if the meter is working! From Taksim the fare is 17 YTL for a 10 minute journey.

 

 

Reina: Muallim Naci Caddesi n° 44

Tel: 00 90 212 259 59 19.

Admission 50 YTL. This the reference for clubbing on the Bosphorus. With a very chic atmosphere and an abundance of celebrities.

 

Sortie: Muallim Naci Caddesi n° 141

Tel: 00 90 212 327 85 85.

Admission 40 YTL. Free on Tuesdays. Techno music, laser lights and international DJs keep you dancing until the early hours.

 

Supperclub: Muallim Naci Caddesi n° 65

Tel: : 00 90 212 2611 988.

Admission 90 YTL Istanbul’s version of Amsterdam’s Supperclub, this nocturnal hide-out is at the cutting edge of the latest trends. Artistic performances in a designer décor setting.

 

Istanbul Jazz Center: Çirağan Caddesi Salhane Sokak n°10

Tel: 00 90 212 327 50 50.

Admission 10 to 60 YTL. Free for women on Tuesdays. World renowned musicians play regularly here. It is the place for jazz lovers!   

 

 Suada Club:

Galatasaray Adasi

 

Tel: 00 90 212 263 73 00.

Situated on a private island (with free boats from Kuruçeşme Park) this club feels like something straight out of Hollywood. It has an Olympic sized pool with bathing during the day and concerts in the evening. 

 

 

 

From July to August: Exhibitions realised by Turkish contemporary artists on the theme of art in unusual contexts. Free admission.

 

 

 

From 3^rd to 30^th June: The Istanbul International Music Festival.  Classical music concerts. There is an admission fee.

 

From 1^st to 15^th July: The Istanbul International Jazz Festival  Jazz concerts. There is an admission fee.