The densely populated and spice-scented district of Üsküdar (on the Asian side) is the largest Anatolian suburb of Istanbul. Visitors will be struck by the tranquil spectacle offered by trictrac players, children fishing and dolmus rattling along its streets. As a backdrop, the district is home to several graceful mosques, marble fountains, a hammam converted into a shopping arcade, a park-like cemetery, and the quaysides that are an integral part of life here. Üsküdar still has its fishermen, whose boats negotiate their path between container ships and ferries heading to the Princes’ Islands.