Devotees of the deliciously lip-blistering, tongue-numbing, sweat-inducing flavors of Sichuan cuisine know where to go: they're all at Lao Sze Chuan, sitting elbow to elbow in the bright red restaurant adorned with images of that crimson pepper. The entire menu seems to be marinated in chili paste: the floral, lingering spices of Sichuan peppercorns in richly stewed ma po tofu make the dish an addictive choice, but just as spicy and an equally crave-worthy contender is the flash-fried dry chili chicken, piled high with fried sliced garlic and handfuls of red chilies. Vegetarians have a place at the table too, as sliced, crunchy cabbage marinated in chili paste gets the same hit of heat as the meaty morsels in the boiled beef with spicy Sichuan sauce.