Entering through the St. Regis Hotel only enhances the grandeur of dining at Adour. Within the ballroom setting, elaborate moldings, floor-to-ceiling etched glass screens, and wine display cabinets convey a sense of old-world luxury. There is an inescapable feeling of wealth and opulence in the central room, where moneyed regulars and residents are seated (solo diners are relegated to a satellite alcove). No matter where you sit, the smartly uniformed servers are at times overly scripted, but always precise and formal. This carefully prepared cuisine reflects a classical and refined cooking with modern interpretations. Skill and talent are paramount in a dish of pan-fried sweetbreads atop bright green sweet peas, diced carrots, and veal jus; or a lush cocotte of soft-cooked farm egg with a splash of cream, melting layers of Gruyère, caramelized ham, and toast points that are perfect for sopping up the velvety yolk. Desserts may dazzle with deep bowls that arrive topped with a thin chocolate cookie lid and gold leaf at the center—tableside, the server ladles a robust coffee granite through this to reveal dark chocolate sorbet, crème Chantilly, and marshmallow hidden beneath.