The birth of Bar Boulud ensured Chef/owner Daniel Boulud's compelling foothold in the Upper West of Manhattan. As its name attests, this "bar" pours sizeable and rare bottles in the airy, warm-toned dining lair. To further tease wine pundits, the room-narrow and deep with a rounded ceiling-mimics a barrel's interior, decked with abstract images of wine spills. Whether you nestle into a booth or bar stool, be sure to begin with an impeccable charcuterie plate. It may even wholly consume you, so save room for thrills like lapin garigue, tender rabbit layered with fragrant herbs and carrots. Entreés like sautéed Quinault sturgeon followed by tanin, an intense dark chocolate tart filled with cocoa mousse, will keep you lilting well into the night.