Bettolona has slowly but steadily built quite a fanfare, courtesy of an Italian team that bestows its authenticity. This hole-in-the-wall is ever-charming, with its mellifluous lighting, red banquettes, and rustic demeanor. The visible pizza oven also lends a hand in luring the locals for a home-style Regina Margherita spread with creamy fior di latte and silky San Marzano tomatoes. Bare wood tables are tightly set, so this isn't ideal for an intimate date. Yet familiar and tasty classic pastas like spinach fettuccine mingled with sweet sausage, peas, and tomatoes in cream sauce; and penne Siciliane slathered with fresh ricotta and cubed eggplant in tomato sauce (just like nonna used to make) are hugely favored among the Columbia University crowd.