This scene is so powerful that it intoxicates. A regular flock of bankers and brokers (entering through the passageway beneath the Helmsley Building at 46th and Park) seeks this clubby and boisterous haunt for its crowd, pricey wines, and those towering shellfish platters, served with flourish and perhaps a gruff edge. After starters like the popular steakhouse Iceberg wedge salad with fried onions and bacon, arrives the meaty main attraction. These steaks are cooked exactly as ordered and carved tableside, with sides like fried zucchini served family-style. After work, the bar is adorned with addictive homemade potato chips and offers a lighter menu as it comes alive with well-shaken martinis. Note that Bobby Van's has four other locations in Manhattan.