Whether it's Brasserie's location in the Seagram building or the simple fact that this has been a midtown fixture since 1959, everyone here seems to expect Don Draper to walk in at any moment. And what an entrance he would make, since guests must descend into the dry room en route to their table. Mod in that "meet George Jetson" kind of way, Brasserie is a see-and-be-seen spot for suits. Strike a deal or schmooze with clients over this country club-style cuisine. With offerings like onion soup gratinée chock-full of caramelized onions beneath bubbling Gruyère; white asparagus crêpes topped with chervil-lemon-butter sauce and lobster; and striped bass over a bed of new potatoes, this food may seem familiar but therein lies the appeal.