Set along the touristy cobblestoned street that is today's Water Street, the Bridge Cafe-which claims to be New York's oldest drinking establishment-was standing here when the area was better known for brothels and saloons than J. Crew and Banana Republic. And so if the food is simply good, but not heroic, at this Manhattan mainstay, one can let a few details slide—especially for brown liquor enthusiasts looking to cruise the restaurant's extensive list of Bourbons, malts, and Scotches. The menu lists some refreshingly light fare like a soft shell crab BLT; grilled wild Pacific salmon; and avocado and watercress salad. But a spot-on buffalo burger, topped with chili, bacon, and pepper jack on a chipotle aïoli-slathered bun really hits the spot.