Shanghai glam of yesteryear comes alive in this gracious space, daintily edged by wood-framed doors, bamboo planters, and Chinese calligraphy. Upon entering Café China, find thoughtful inflections from soft sea foam walls and antique portraits to a lofty ceiling adorned with an elegant brass chandelier. Touches of glossy black and Chinoiserie convey an art deco take on Shanghai in the 30s. The menu eschews ubiquitous Americanized favorites in favor of a refined take on Chinese cuisine. Young and engaging servers deliver such carefully prepared dishes as diced rabbit tossed in a supremely flavorful and lip-numbing red chili oil with scallions and roasted peanuts; sole fillets in a wonderfully subtle soy bath, paired with snow pea shoots and sliced green chilies; and texturally exquisite julienne jellyfish coated in a fresh, tangy scallion pesto. The cumin lamb is spicy, tender, and intensely good. Odes may follow from the flavor explosion in spicy Chengdu wontons—silky parcels of ground pork and finely chopped scallions. These dumplings slicked with chili oil might be fire engine red, but don't be dissuaded—flavors here are not so much a wallop of heat as a range of deep, lingering tastes.