Dressy and expensive, this ambitious Italian is fittingly nestled among Madison Avenue galleries and boutiques. Caravaggio's slender dining room, decorated with silk-covered walls, sleek leather seating, and evocative, original artwork exudes a coolness that can mirror the disposition of the formal waitstaff. The menu is enhanced by a lengthy list of daily specials that is verbally recited in minute detail. Be sure to pay attention and indulge, but the printed menu offers gems as well, like cavatelli with clams and unctuous, rich sea urchin. Vitello tonnato is a classic unto itself, braised until fork-tender, sliced paper-thin, then sauced with that wondrous combination of egg yolk, Dijon, olive oil, tuna, lemon, capers, and chives.