K-town may boast its barbecue joints, but Cho Dang Gol has its own calling in tofu, that creamy little bean curd that sets hearts a-jumping. The restaurant is named for a South Korean village famous for this specialty; one imagines those locals would approve of this fresh, silky house-made version. Here, tofu finds its way into more than two dozen dishes, including hot and crispy pancakes, filled with ground pork and vegetables; or a cast iron pot, loaded with sweet and spicy octopus. A spicy prime rib casserole is perfect for sharing. At first glance, Cho Dang Gol is warm and sentimental with cute Korean artifacts and rustic wooden tables, but don't expect like-minded service. When the house gets packed, servers respond with brusque efficiency.