Chef Paul Liebrandt invokes a certain game-changing genius that has been crammed into high-profile kitchens across the globe. Here at Corton, find young foodies with cerebral tastes and future chefs trying to gauge where their profession is heading. The contemporary cuisine is very creative, intriguing, and impressive. The service is warm, but falters if the chef is elsewhere that night. White walls with reliefs of branches, and bits of gold leaf set the minimalist scene, while a slender pane of glass may reveal the chef's imposing form in the kitchen. Set menus range from six to nine courses, and may begin with marshmallow-soft yuzu foam, sashimi, and paper-thin daikon topped with osetra caviar and edible blossoms. An affinity for sweetness is revealed in a dual "rouge" composition of intensely hued cabbage purée, purple artichoke heart, meringue, crunchy kohlrabi; and an accompanying bowl of black eggplant meringue, Treviso, and tart fruit sorbet. Squab is blissfully tender, with a wedge of roasted, crumb-topped carrot, caramelized potato fondant, dressed tableside in an excellent jus. Chocolate desserts-with squiggles of birch gelée and dabs of honey-sweet chestnut cream-are memorable.