Estiatorio Milos is a Greek restaurant with such deliciously singular focus on the sea that it may best be described as sunbleached. Beyond a giant urn stationed at the entrance, there are no shawarmas or moussakas in sight; however, the gleaming dining room is dramatic, amid 30-foot ceilings and a swarm of hovering suits that part like the Red Sea at the hostesses' command. Then, of course, there are the iced beds of fish: pink, gold, clear-eyed, and flecked with silver, they are a tableau of the Agean's bounty. The dining room casts a spare glow on such tasty portions as grilled St. Pierre, wonderfully fleshy and crisp with a squeeze of lemon and hint of smoke; or the Lavraki and Petropsara soup, a classic treasure hailing from Santorini.