Snagging a seat at the long, semi-circular bar is the best way to carouse at this spirited café, set in an otherwise drab locale. Everyone loves Lugo and awe prevails as one meanders through this vast, well-dressed space. Keeping company with quirky touches like coffee cans and Italian newspapers are more handsome elements like sky-high ceilings, massive windows, and cocooned booths. Diners at this airy ristorante are here for the mood and food. Set with placemats that read like menus, tables tender the likes of irresistible homemade mozzarella paired with fiery peppers and soppresata; fried artichokes licked with lemon aïoli; rigatoni all'Amatriciana revealing salty pancetta; and classic rosemary chicken al forno with root vegetables and jus.