This popular Morningside Heights joint stays elbow-to-elbow most nights despite small digs, loud music, and a slow-as-molasses staff. In fact, that's all part of the charm for the regulars that crowd into Melba's to listen to music, drink, and, of course, eat. Solidly ensconced in what is recognized as Harlem's Gold Coast, Melba's custom chandeliers, plush banquettes, and exposed brick are cozy-chic incarnate. From the Southern bill of fare, go for down-home comfort, like Southern-fried chicken or eggnog waffles, while those looking to stay on the soulful lighter side stick to Melba's grilled vegetable Napoleon. No matter what, the heartbreakingly moist coconut layer cake infused with butter cream and dusted with coconut flakes is a must.