Oceana, seafood purveyor extraordinaire, has settled beautifully into its illustrious home in Rockefeller Center. Enter to see a dramatic parade of pristine shellfish (maybe razor clam ceviche tinged with yuzu?) and oysters at the raw bar and be reminded of the restaurant's seriousness of purpose. The sleek and contemporary dining room, with deep blue banquettes and stunning floral arrangements, is an impeccable setting in which to savor Chef Ben Pollinger's superlative fare. A glass-enclosed private room, or chef's table by the kitchen are attractive options for power crowds hosting lunch meetings. The superbly fresh items never falter in finding just the right global accent, as in a chilled, creamy asparagus soup enhanced by marinated salmon, sugar snap peas, and dill. The taro-wrapped dorade is unbelievably moist, served in a flavorful coconut-cilantro curry studded with baby bok choy and peanuts. The broiled mahi is as appealing on the plate as to the palate, arriving golden brown with parsnips, Fingerling potatoes, and chestnuts in a balsamic reduction. Desserts reveal hints of inspiration, especially the boozy pink champagne cake layered with vanilla custard and grapefruit sorbet.